I’ve recently ordered “Barbarian days: A surfing life” by William Finnegan
It’s a book I meant to order a while back, then I forgot about it until I spotted it again on someone’s feed on Instagram.
“Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life” has won the Pulitzer Prize and William Hill Sports Book of the Year.
I’ve just started reading it so I can’t tell you much about it yet but I love reading about surfing or watching movies.
Momentum Generation (available on iTunes) was fascinating!
I’ve watched it twice and could watch it again. It features all the kids and then champions that came out of the 80s like Kelly Slater, Rob Machado, Shane Dorian, Taylor Steele.
I met Rob Machado last year when Mila was competing in Hossegor. The weather was awful, I was running to the car to grab something and I spotted him with his daughter changing by his van. I nurtured a bit of courage and went up to him to say hello. He was the sweetest person I ever met, very smiling and relax and frankly, he made my day
So while Mila is competing this weekend in Royan, Steve and I are going to enjoy each other’s company. We went for a run this morning, we will go on a date tonight, surfing tomorrow and between, we will probably chill, eat and sleep. Have a great WE xoxo
Click HERE to order “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life”