I’ve recently ordered “Barbarian days: A surfing life” by William Finnegan It’s a book I meant to order a while back, then I forgot about it until I spotted it again on someone’s feed on Instagram. “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life”  has won the Pulitzer Prize and William Hill Sports Book of the Year. I’ve just started reading it so I can’t tell you much about it yet but I love reading about surfing or watching movies. Momentum Generation (available on iTunes) was fascinating! I’ve watched it twice and could watch it again. It features all the kids and then champions that came out of the 80s like Kelly Slater, Rob Machado, Shane Dorian, Taylor Steele. The footage and photography in the movie are a massive inspiration for me. I met Rob Machado last year when Mila was competing in Hossegor. The weather was awful, I was running to the car to grab something and I spotted him with his daughter changing by his van. I nurtured a bit of courage and went up to him to say …