All posts tagged: surfing

"Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life" 

Barbarian days: A surfing life

I’ve recently ordered “Barbarian days: A surfing life” by William Finnegan It’s a book I meant to order a while back, then I forgot about it until I spotted it again on someone’s feed on Instagram. “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life”  has won the Pulitzer Prize and William Hill Sports Book of the Year. I’ve just started reading it so I can’t tell you much about it yet but I love reading about surfing or watching movies. Momentum Generation (available on iTunes) was fascinating! I’ve watched it twice and could watch it again. It features all the kids and then champions that came out of the 80s like Kelly Slater, Rob Machado, Shane Dorian, Taylor Steele. The footage and photography in the movie are a massive inspiration for me. I met Rob Machado last year when Mila was competing in Hossegor. The weather was awful, I was running to the car to grab something and I spotted him with his daughter changing by his van. I nurtured a bit of courage and went up to him to say …

My belated Xmas gift: a SEN NO SEN wetsuit

Kicking off my 2018 surfing season

One of the things on my to-do lists when we moved to the beach was to take up surfing. At first, it was hugely challenging on various accounts. A part of me was very proud to start surfing at 40+ because I’m a firm believer that anyone of us can start anything we want, anytime, without caring about the age thing. However, the reality was a bit harder to process. First, I was the only woman over 40+ at my club to surf (and when I say 40+, I’m actually closer to 50) so often I ended up surfing with teens age 12-17… It was fine, they were all really sweet and they didn’t really care about me but I had a few lonely moments when I was wondering what on earth I was doing there or what was I trying to prove to myself… Yet I kept going. Second, the physical struggle was real. After ten years running my own business, working long hours and not paying attention to what I was eating, I was …

Eat, Surf, Love in Bali (C) Karine Kong Photography

Eat, surf, love

I have been doing a lot of soul searching recently. Photography is becoming such a big part of my creative life, I was trying to figure out how to include in this blog.

Herewith magazine | BODIE and FOU Style blog

Herewith magazine #issue 1

Long before starting surfing and creating a new instagram account to curate surfing photography and capture people’s happiness by the sea, I was fascinated by women surfers. Who hasn’t, at least once in Summer, long for what looks like an enviable carefree feeling, a body to die for, an admirable fitness level, an impression of being at one with the ocean or a gorgeous healthy-looking tan? I have on several occasions and now that I surf twice a week and get a real kick each time I catch a wave, I get a lot of joy and inspiration from taking photos for people from the sea. The other thing that recently inspired me a lot, was the first issue of new magazine HEREWITH

Skating is a dirty job but someone has to do it

Summer ’16 The Edit | Tanned, bruised and sweaty

The first month of Mila‘s Summer holidays is almost over and boy…we’ve been really busy living and I’m happy with that. With Brexit and Nice, I’m more than ever determined to give my child the happy childhood she deserves and create happy memories she can cherish in years to come. I have been practising photography a lot which you may have noticed on my Instagram and Mila’s and it has allowed me to gain some peace through the recent events and our first Summer without dad. I still feel tearful when I think about it but photography has given me an escape and has enabled me to focus on the beautiful side of the world and remain hopeful. I have been watching a lot of tutorials from Creative Live (in English) and Objectif Photographe (in French) and I feel I’ve made some progress since our trip to Portugal but I still have a long way to go. I haven’t tackled digital editing yet but I’m trying to show my face more and do more style & fashion shots. Both are a big challenge. …

Surfing at 40+

Surfing at 40+ because it’s never too late to learn something new

Surfing at 40+ was never an issue because age for me is not an issue. I’m a firm believer that it’s never too late to start anything you want in life. You can start over, each morning and do whatever you want. I don’t define myself or what I want to do by my age and neither should you. I think it is how you feel in your own skin that matters. You can be a fit, healthy chick in your fifties and a couch potato in your twenties. You can be cancer or depression survivor and then turn your life around in a matter of months. Being comfortable with my age, wrinkles and fine lines are one of my great achievements. Yes, sometimes my skin is dry. Some nights I drink too much, don’t sleep enough and look like hell. However, generally speaking, I’m OK with who I am and I credit this mostly to what I eat and the lifestyle changes I’ve made over the past four years. I have still work to do to be comfortable with my …