Kicking off my 2018 surfing season
One of the things on my to-do lists when we moved to the beach was to take up surfing. At first, it was hugely challenging on various accounts. A part of me was very proud to start surfing at 40+ because I’m a firm believer that anyone of us can start anything we want, anytime, without caring about the age thing. However, the reality was a bit harder to process. First, I was the only woman over 40+ at my club to surf (and when I say 40+, I’m actually closer to 50) so often I ended up surfing with teens age 12-17… It was fine, they were all really sweet and they didn’t really care about me but I had a few lonely moments when I was wondering what on earth I was doing there or what was I trying to prove to myself… Yet I kept going. Second, the physical struggle was real. After ten years running my own business, working long hours and not paying attention to what I was eating, I was …
